Diamonds, myth & magic. A journey of a billion years and SURREAL LIVES

Diamonds are reckoned to be a woman's best friend - be it in hollywood arthouse productions that you muse over on a long-haul flight or in cheap paperbacks that you rifle through on an unplanned train journey. Be it a heist, a spy chasing a red herring or the whimsy tale of a whimsical waif in New York, where there's diamond there is intrigue. Speaking of which, we wonder how well do you know your diamond? Did you know for instance that your sparkly companion has lived an eternity and quite literally shone through it?

Staying Precious

Rarely has a naturally occurring element been held so precious across ages and empires. Right from the times of the eternals like Zeus, the epic Roman empire, the era of cakes if you couldn’t afford bread (Marie Antoinette you are still not forgiven) and to the modern day, right down to this very minute where this enchantress on your finger or wrist still makes you skip a beat. And remains your best friend. A diamond forever precious.

Well, why say it when one can sing it? Better, if it is Rihanna.

A billion years
old and yet not
a wrinkle in sight

Literature as early as the first century AD or should it be the politically more correct BCE, mentions that Cupid’s arrows were diamond-tipped, clearly reinforcing the aura placed within these magnificent stones. So, was Cupid’s magical prowess all about the diamonds he shot?

As per a Greek myth, the God Zeus transforms some children into Adamastos, that gave the world two words – Diamond and Adamant. And resolutely adamant does diamond remain both as one of the world’s hardest natural elements and something that women of substance can best relate to.

Some consider diamonds to be divine. The classic Greek philosopher, Plato considered diamonds to be actual living celestial spirits ossified into stones, thereby adding a full 24 carats of mystique to this ageless wonder.

The Romans believed that diamonds bestowed magical powers on them. They considered diamonds as the outer rings of stars that had fallen to earth. Julius Caesar and his legionnaires wore diamonds which they insisted gave them divine powers in military campaigns. Well history certainly bears them out.

And as did the French with both Louis IV and Napoleon who wore diamonds for strength and protection.

I never worry about diets. The only carrots that interest me are the number you get in a diamond – Mae West.

Between fact and the fantastic

And it wasn’t just the Greeks and Romans. Ancient Hindus embedded diamonds in the eyes of devotional statues and believed that a diamond could protect its wearer from danger.

Intriguing indeed is the story of India’s Kohinoor that some historians nudge to the age of mythology. In Persian language Kohinoor means the “Mountain of Light.” Its weight at the time of discovery, a full 793 carats lives up to the title. The History of Koh-I-Noor written by NB Sen traces the origins of the famed diamond to the Vishnu Purana and the Bhagawat citing many references.

As per Sen, the diamond was traditionally known as Syamantaka Mani and later Madnayak or the King of Jewels, before being renamed Kohinoor in the 18th century by the Afghan regent, Ahmad Shah Abdali. The version maintains that the Syamantaka Mani passed through many hands, the first rightful owner being King Satrajit of Satrapur a neighbouring kingdom of Dwarka. His penance and devotion led the Sun God to bestow him with this matchless jewel which was said to possess the lustre of the Sun.

Across many ages, many battles and many intriguing episodes the Syamantaka jewel passes through the hands of Jambavan, Krishna, Karna, Arjun, Yudhisthir, Parikshit and then later through Porus to the Kakatiya kingdom. Phew… now that’s an illustrious journey. As per the “Secrets of the World’s Undiscovered Treasures” by Lionel and Patricia Fanthorpe, while the diamond was found in the mines of Golconda under the aegis of the Kakatiya kingdom (while some historians maintain it adorned the statue of Goddess Bhadrakali in a Warrangal temple), they also traced back references to Sanskrit scriptures thereby time-dating the enigmatic diamond to be at least 5000-6000 years old.

The famed jewel continued its chequered journey through to the hands of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, who in his last days decreed that it be donated to the Jagannath Temple at Puri. Finally across plots, machinations and more battles, the Kohinoor was ceded to Queen Victoria in 1849 when Punjab was annexed into the British Empire. The British got their hands on the jewel after taking advantage of divisions among the Sikhs and the general anarchy which engulfed Punjab following Ranjit Singh’s death. Author William Dalrymple mentions accounts of “a cholera epidemic and storms which nearly sank the ship HMS Medea as it carried the Koh-i-Noor to England, scything through passengers and crew”.

With a history of bad luck that dogged male rulers who wore the Kohinoor, upon its arrival in the UK, it was worn only by women rulers. Queen Victoria wore it in a brooch and circlet after which it adorned the crowns of Queens Alexandra, Mary and Elizabeth. Today it remains locked in the Tower of London.

NEVER
OUT OF
DEPTH

Much till 1725 when the diamond mines of Brazil were discovered, and apart from a few black diamond crystals found in the mountains of Borneo, it was India which held status as the country of origin of the world’s diamonds. Ancient Indian diamonds were alluvial and hence sieved and extracted as natural crystals from the soft sands of ancient river beds, rather than mined.

And it is true. The best diamonds are forged out of pressure and go through the grind, to be as valuable as they are. And it is so very true of today’s achiever women who shine best when under pressure and battle odds to even the world.

Diamond Mining
Play Video

And at the end of those beautiful struggles, the glint shines through. Sometimes even out-glittering the shiny, crazy diamonds that the Greeks and Romans, once wore as a talisman.

Diamonds form about 100 miles below the earth, under extreme pressure and temperature. They are carried to the surface by deep volcanic eruption and magma pipes called the Kimberlite and Lamproite pipes. The story of this mineral that is 58 times harder than its rivals is similar to that of high achievers and their beautiful struggles. They all rage against the ordinary.

That’s what true diamonds are. They are a hallmark of battles, that make the world a better place, a shinier place.

Inspired by stories that run deep.

A well of stories confabulated to create Samāvé. Catch Beate Steinfeld, Head of Trend & Design at Titan in conversation with Dr. Purnima Mehta Bhatt, professor of history, anthropology and author of Her Space, Her Story: Exploring the stepwells of Gujarat & Birwa Qureshi, founder of the Crraft of Art initiative.

Wells that spring
stories & diamonds.

explore

One can’t go deeper with stories than the mystical Baolis of India. The Samāvé collection – a fable of women, water and life - takes inspiration from ancient stepwells that not only sprung life in arid geographies but also fostered a strong sense of community.

Lighting up sea routes and the age of ideas

The Renaissance was much like the era of today – technology, imagination and enterprise were at their inventive best changing the course of civilisation. And even the path of Diamonds.

Catch the Medici series on Netflix

Trade routes and channels opened and precious stones started finding their ship to the European harbours. Where master craftsmen, artisans often patronized by the ruling classes starting giving them a new life. A more polished and intricate life. Central America, Newfoundland, India and Brazil were sought after for their precious stones.

Merchants and trading corporations had their favourites. Diamonds and rubies from India, lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, emeralds from Columbia, iolite from Sri Lanka, peridot from the Red Sea, turquoise (amazonite) and topaz from Brazil.

Goldsmiths were the alchemists using techniques like casting, chasing, hammering, cold–joining, soldering and welding to hold these jewels together.

More advanced techniques that were gleaned from ancient traditions and guilds included embossing, enamelling, engraving and filigree work. All toiling away for that irresistible jewellery that caught the fancy of rich patrons and nobility. Peru and Mexico kept the gold flowing.

SERVED RAW, UNCUT OR POLISHED. AS YOU LIKE IT.

Romans wore raw and uncut forms of the stones. For them to cut or mutilate a diamond was considered a cultural taboo. Romans believed it would be like an injury inflicted on their gods, and that might cause the stone to lose its protective properties that were so important to them.

“The reason why gemstones have more magical power than anything else is because their luminescence and transparency resemble the appearance of heaven.”

-Hermes Trismegistos

Trade between European countries led to cross pollination of influences, design and styles and the emergence of jewellery that had geographical annotations.

The diamond as the crowning jewel was changing clothes faster than ever. Always dressed to thrill.

But the men and women of Renaissance were cut from a different cloth. They faceted, cut, rounded and polished up these precious stones into what became a style to last. Table cuts and Cameo cuts became the buzz words.

The courts of Spain, England, France, the French duchy of Burgundy, and the Italian duchy of Tuscany indulged in extravagant contests, trying to outcompete each other in the display of gold, gems, and pearls, a rather expensive phenomenon that for centuries had not occurred on such a large scale.

While the era of renaissance from the 14th steadily gave way to the 17th century the inspirations and cuts became more vivid. Jewellery started paying tributes to themes of nature, the Bible, Humanism and even the happenstances of sea faring traders & explorers which included sea monsters and mermaids.

Be it pendants, rings or ear-rings, head ornaments or coiffeurs, the diamonds in august company were finding a new place, a new need all over again.

WOOED A
MAXIMUM
DYNASTY

The first known use of a diamond engagement ring took place in 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a gold ring featuring an M spelled out in diamonds. Maximilian I, as he was also known as, was King of the Romans for 33 years, from 1486 right till his death in 1519. He was born to Frederick III, Holy Roman Emperor of the House of Habsburg. His was one of the principal sovereign dynasties of Europe from the 15th to the 20th century. His empire stretched right from the Netherlands in the North to Italy in the South, and from Spain in the west to Poland in the east. A maximum regent so to say.

His marriage with Mary of Burgundy was seen as a marriage of political convenience. She was the only child of the Duke of Burgundy. As the sole child and heir apparent of her father's vast and prosperous reign, Mary was considered a prized wife. Her father, controlled Burgundy and most of the Low Countries –Belgium and Netherlands, as we know them today.

Given the public attention around this rather glamorous pairing, the betrothal with the diamond engagement ring at the Viennese imperial court in 1477 was documented in writing and painting, as was the lavish wedding, that followed at Ghent on August 16 of the year.

After Maximilian’s demise at the rather young age of 59, the Habsburg Empire, later morphed into the Austro-Hungarian Empire which had a glorious reign of another 399 years 11 months and 9 days. Queen Elizabeth II, one of the world's fervent diamond collectors traces her ancestry to Maximilian I.

Soon it was a match-maker

Christian’s find
on 2021 May.

Christian Liden is or should we say was a diamond hound. On May 1, 2021, he took leave of his fiancée Klokkevold for a camping trip to Yellowstone, along with his best friend since the sixth grade, Josh Tucker.

But this was no ordinary camping trip. Nor was it headed remotely towards Yellowstone. Christian lied for a reason. A noble one.

Instead, the pair made their way to the Crater of Diamonds State Park in Murfreesboro, Ark., more than 2,200 miles away.

A match made

in a forest

explore

Rooted: Rare jewellery that embraces an unwavering spirit

This is a place that welcomes diamond hunters and citizens to ferret and search for real diamonds on an eroded surface of a volcanic crater — and guess what? Keep what they find.

The rewards for your efforts are disproportionate – for the fact that you enter with a $10 ticket and are free to bring along your own buckets, shovels and mesh screens to sift through the volcanic dirt.

Their efforts paid off when they hit dirt. Christian scooped out a 2.2-carat, triangular yellow diamond, one of the largest finds in recent times.

He had found what he had come for. A diamond for his fiancée Klokkevold.

Some estimates for the diamond he found range from anything between $2500-$20,000 per carat depending of course on colour, cut and clarity.

But for Christian and Klokkevold, this was priceless.

Click here to read the story when it broke out

While the pair gets around to designing the ring for the wedding, we can’t but not think about Maximilian and Mary who started it all. Using diamonds to seal the deal.

IN BETWEEN,
IT TOOK
OVER A
MONTH

It is said that during the 18th century in Poland, it was Jewish gem traders who started the practice of marketing and selling gemstones based on a person’s birth month. In 1912 the National Association of Jewelers solidified the practice in the United States. The Zodiac has ruled the celestial world of gems since then.

Speaking of April, it’s also quite the gourmet month with table bestsellers and their national days. The roll call includes a veritable brunch - Blueberry pie. Prime Ribs. Pretzels. Tea. Eggs Benedict. Glazed Spiral Ham. Pecan. Grilled cheese sandwich. Beer. Twinkie. Caramel. Chocolate Mousse. Peanut Butter & Jelly. With food in mind, spring in the air, and brunches to grace, how can your best friend be left behind. After all it owns the month.

Click to see the Diamonds of Eve collection

Celestial it remains

Scientists have discovered a planet that they believe is composed mostly of carbon, and is one-third pure diamond! Discovered in 2004, the planet orbits a nearby star in the Milky Way, and is named “55 Cancri e” (which, in our opinion, is not a sufficiently glamorous name for such an extraordinary planet). Perhaps even more amazing, star-gazers have discovered a star that is essentially a diamond of ten billion trillion trillion carats. Lucy has been the biggest diamond found so far. They named the star Lucy after the Beatles song “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds.” We heartily approve.

and colourful at heart

Lucy is couched by a very thin atmosphere of hydrogen and helium. The atmosphere of our very own Sun is mostly hydrogen and helium too. Astronomers contend, similarly, our Sun will deplete its nuclear fuel and die in another five billion years, and then become a white dwarf like Lucy. Then, about two billion years after that, the cinder Sun will be a similar diamond. Who knows what song will inspire its name then.

It is believed that only one in every 10,000 natural diamonds is classified as a fancy colour diamond. Formed across billions of years and making an arduous journey through volcanic pipes from under the earth, diamonds are subject to forces that cause uncommon distortions in the lattice of carbon atoms.

Similarly certain natural elements, such as nitrogen or boron, can saturate the diamond and alter its microscopic structure. These are like its battle scars. And the way the diamond interacts with light owing to its facets, gives it its exceptional colour. A diamond that shines forever.

"THERE ARE THREE THINGS EXTREMELY HARD: STEEL, A DIAMOND, AND TO KNOW ONE'S SELF."

- BENJAMIN FRANKLIN